One of my favorite family adventures so far! Seriously good tourism, right in our own backyard.
On Saturday I was able to check an item off the bucket list. So simple and satisfying was it that I’m amazed it took this long. Three years ago my friend Lisa shared with me her brilliant twist to the classic castle tour and since she has just moved back to the US, she was on my mind, inspiring me to get this trip underway! Her idea was to download an audio performance of Hamlet and, with Shakespeare’s words as her companion, experience the scenery as a live set. The following blurb copied from VisitDenmark.com
The history of Kronborg Castle (Elsinore)
Kronborg Castle has existed at Helsingør (Elsinore) since 1420. It’s been burned to the ground and rebuilt since, but always maintained its vital position at the head of the Øresund Sound. Ships passing into the Baltic Sea paid tolls at Kronborg Castle and Helsingør was once one of the most important towns in Europe. In 2000, Kronborg Castle became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Lisa’s clever plan to enhance a solo visit was, perhaps, not as practical when traveling with companions. Though I was very happy to have the whole family along, I wasn’t able to complete the entire 3.5 hour play, in part because the journey to Helsingør was so quick and entertaining on its own. Otherwise the timing would be about perfect, as it was for Lisa. A couple of notes 1) My Shakespeare is rusty 2) the library only had the Spanish version available, so I gave it a try, but Elizabethan English translated to Spanish was too much for me. Luckily I found a free English copy from Audible! 3) This is a really cool thing to do even if it embarrasses your children when you randomly shout out funny Shakespearian words and phrases like “God’s bodkin, man, much better”.
Heading out on the 30 minute train from Lund, we boarded (directly from the train station) the ferry from Helsingborg to Helsingør aka Elsinore. We haven’t yet properly visited the town of Helsingør where, incidentally, my mom’s Danish cousins reside. This will give us another opportunity to enjoy the ferry! By observing the other passengers we determined that the ferry ride itself can be the destination. By riding the ferry back and forth across the narrow channel, one can make time for all the ship’s amenities. There are several food and drink venues and even a schedule of live entertainment. Easter buffet was on offer in the restaurant, but having failed to allow time to “tura” we wolfed down the classic beer/soda and rød pølse combo for which most Danes and Swedes seem to harbor deep fondness.
Bryant and I fully intend to tura properly in the future. We saw lots of groups of friends and familes, locals and tourists of all ages and manner of dress, enjoying snacks, drinks and the views. And, yes, some toted means for transporting duty free beverages back to Sweden.
In less than 20 minutes we were met with gorgeous views of Helsingør, at the head of the Øresund’s narrowest point (4km).
Then the castle is just a 10 minute walk from the ferry. At this point I tried hard to imagine how everything would have felt during Shakespeare’s time, when three English actors, who were employed as performers at Kronborg Castle in 1585, eventually related to him stories of their experiences, some of which make it into Hamlet. Once inside the castle I was able to ask the guides about the various locations that are recognizable in Hamlet: Prince of Denmark.
My favorite detail of Shakespeare’s connection to the castle was the Cannon Salute, which must have been quite impressive to the English actors, who related that all the shattered windows in the ballroom were replaced by the next day, marking the wealth and power of the Crown. Shakespeare purportedly created such connections to Danish culture to curry favor with King James and Queen Anne of Denmark.
On a clear day Sweden is visible from inside the castle.
Of course there is much more to the history of Kronborg. Another intriguing bit is the legend of Holger the Dane. Bryant and the kids (some parts too dark for me, what with the uneven stones) loved exploring the tunnels under the castle, where Holger’s statue awaits. I overheard a guide pointing out that Denmark has been attacked several times since Holger and it seems nothing has yet caused him to awaken, but he certainly looks like he could rise up at any moment.
An exhibit that I especially enjoyed was an art collection done by a local guy who started buying paintings anytime he found one that featured Kronborg Slot, eventually filling his office, so he has lent part of his collection to the castle. I thought it was amazing to see the variety of ways the castle was depicted. My favorite was the 1915 view from the ferry, which apart from the fashion, could be today!
To please the children, we kept the visit short and sweet, arriving back in Lund before dinner. Nori didn’t seem to miss us overly much.
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