We opted to include the neighboring county (region) of Blekinge in our summer ticket. It’s very accessible by public transportation, though it’s a bit far for a day trip, so we haven’t seen much of the area except for Sölvesborg. That charming town in Blekinge was described in this earlier post.
With Bryant and the youngest off on their own adventures in Iceland, Denver and Minneapolis and Nori being monitored by Hil post spay surgery (more on that later), Stephanie joined me for this short trip. We arrived mid-afternoon and easily found the airbnb, a real gem discovered by Stephanie. Our host, Maiellen, made us right at home, even guiding us around her gardens and the adjacent green space with amazing views of the sea and other islands in the archipelago.
Maiellen’s house with extensive gardens on Hästö, horse island, not far from the main island of Trossö.
Karlskrona is Sweden’s only Baroque city and the best preserved example of a planned naval port, making it a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Much like Stockholm, it was built on the southern-most archipelago in Sweden. In 1680 Charles XI founded a naval base on the Baltic Sea to solidify control of the region that Denmark had recently ceded.
We did a self guided walking tour, hitting the highlights on the main island and enjoyed some regional foods. My favorites were the baked goods from the Lindqvist Sisters Bakery where I tried two types of kringlor (a bread dough that can be sweet or savory, translated as “pretzel”) both of those I tried were sweet versions; one called sugar kringla (Stinaskringla) and the other with a merengue filling, and a slice of rhubarb cake for dessert!
Other good eats included a savoy cabbage salad with local mushrooms, fresh fried herring, boiled potato pork (I didn’t see any of the eel or seabird variety!) dumplings called kroppkaka, fried potato pancakes, classic meatballs. I enjoyed all of it even more when we dined al fresco near the sea.
Eels were a staple food and a big part of the fishing industry at one time. And during the lean times, moss bread was common. The sample in the photo is from 1868. I noticed that mosses are prolific all over the island. They grow thick and squishy and in many varieties. But imho they should be left for reindeer to enjoy!
The Blekinge Museum was delightful. I especially enjoyed the digital portraits that move and carry on conversations, like the portraits in Harry Potter. And the digital dress-up screen was a blast. I didn’t notice the collection of wigs until I’d finished my turn at the screen, but that would’ve been cool. Not much could be done about my bright blue and pink HOKA shoes, however.
Boats and ferries abound in the waters around the 1,650 islands and islets of Karlskrona. There is a direct line to Poland 3-4 times daily and regular cruise ships as well. We got a small taste of the type of hiking in the area and I expect I’ll return with the family for more of the nature experience. The landscape is quite stunning and I’m sure we could have filled several days. By coincidence, at the same time we were there, Andrea’s daughter was as well, sailing solo from Sweden’s northeast coast around south Sweden. It took her 30 hours to sail from Karlskrona to Lomma, where she arrived this morning, in time to spend the day in Lund!
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